Hallaton is a beautiful village, all thatched roofs and golden walls, set in the rolling wolds of east Leicestershire. But there's more to it than meets the eye. Setting off from the Bewicke Arms past the Buttercross on a windy spring morning, I glanced up the road to St Michael's Church. In a couple of weeks' time Hallaton's great Easter Monday procession would gather at the church gates for the ceremonial cutting of a giant hare pie, the gentler half of the village's annual ritual, Hare Pie Scramble and Bottle Kicking.

If you don't like rough play, beer drinking and large muddy men, stay away from Hallaton's Hare Pie Bank on Easter Monday afternoon. It's there that the dismembered pie is sent flying into the crowd. After that the Master of the Stowe launches a painted wooden cylinder, or Bottle, into the air. Hundreds of men and one or two women hurl themselves on top of it, and each other, and battle begins. The rough aim (and rough's the word) is for Hallaton to score by getting the 12lb Bottle - a wooden keg filled with beer - across to its bank of the Medbourne brook through fair means or foul, while the neighbouring villagers of Medbourne do their damnedest to force it across to their side. Best of three Bottles wins. And that's it. Unlimited numbers can take part, with no time limit and no rules.

Picturing the mayhem, I walked fast over fields of fresh spring wheat. From Keythorpe Hall the Midshires Way long-distance path led me south between pastures where the ewes brought their newborn lambs to stare at the stranger. Hunting fences separated the fields, their upper rails smoothed by the friction of passing horse legs - a reminder that I was tramping the “Galloping Shires”.

Amid the immaculate gardens of Medbourne daffodils were out along the brook. Another Bottle stood above the bar of the Nevill Arms. Which village had gained the victory last Bottle Kicking? “They did,” mumbled a tough guy in a T-shirt, “but not next time, mate!” A spring hailstorm marched across the wolds as I walked back to Hallaton by way of Blaston Chapel. Hailstones pattered on my coat. Blackbirds sang. Nature seemed bursting with life; and people, too, were preparing in their own rough-and-tumble way to celebrate health, strength and vigour.

Start & finish Bewicke Arms, Hallaton LE16 8UB (OS ref SP 788965)

Getting there A47 Leicester towards Uppingham; minor road East Norton-Hallaton. Park near Bewicke Arms.

Walk (11 miles, easy grade, OS Explorer 233): Bewicke Arms - bridleway for 2 miles by Hallaton Spinneys to Keythorpe Hall Farm (766994) - south for 3 miles by Midshires Way, through Cranoe to Churchfield House (760945) - bridleway for 2 miles across Welham Road and Green Lane to Medbourne and Nevill Arms (798929). Along Uppingham Road for half mile - left (802938 - “Blaston, Field Road”) for 1 mile to Blaston - left at foot of Horninghold Lane (803956) across fields to Medbourne Road (794961) - right to Hallaton.

Online map, more walks www.christophersomerville.co.uk

Lunch Nevill Arms, Medbourne (01858 565288; www.thenevillarms.net)

Accommodation Bewicke Arms, Hallaton (01858-555217; www.bewickearms.co.uk)

More information Leicester TIC (0844 8885181; www.goleicestershire.com). Hare Pie Scramble and Bottle Kicking: April 13