For the pasta, use the ratio of 1 litre of water to 100g of pasta and 10g of salt, and cook as per packet instructions.

Meanwhile, zest the lemon, chop the parsley and basil and grate the parmesan. Set aside.

Once the pasta is cooked, take 1 tbsp of the cooking water and add to the sauce. Drain the pasta and add to the sauce. Combine the two, add the lemon zest and chopped herbs, and grate over the parmesan to taste. Taste again and adjust the seasoning (with salt and freshly ground black pepper). Add a little olive oil and lemon juice if you think it requires more acidity.

TREACLE PUDDING

If it’s comfort eating you’re after, this pudding surely fits the bill – but you’ll need a sweet tooth. On a practical note, you will also need 12 150ml pudding basins.

Makes 12

For the treacle mix
50g unsalted butter, plus 50g extra for greasing the basins
1 egg
20ml double cream
½ tsp table salt
454g tin of golden syrup
200g brown breadcrumbs
Zest of 1 lemon
15ml lemon juice

For the sponge
220g plain flour
1 tbsp mixed spice
2 tsp baking soda
Pinch of salt
220g suet
2 eggs
565ml whole milk
50ml lemon juice
Zest of 2 lemons
Cream, to serve

Start by preparing the treacle mix. Make a beurre noisette by heating the butter in a pan over a medium heat. When it stops sizzling (a sign that all the water has evaporated, after which it will soon burn) and develops a nutty aroma, remove it from the heat immediately. Strain into a jug and leave to cool. Discard any blackened solids left in the sieve.

Put the egg, cream and salt in a bowl, and whisk until combined. Set aside. Pour 230g of golden syrup into a pan and heat gently until liquid. Stir the beurre noisette into the warmed golden syrup – try to avoid tipping in any sediment that may have collected at the bottom of the jug – then pour the buttery syrup into the egg and cream mixture. Stir in the breadcrumbs, then the lemon zest and juice. Mix well.

Grease the 12 pudding basins with softened butter, then spoon roughly 1 tbsp golden syrup into the base of each.

Mix all the dry sponge ingredients together with the suet in a bowl. Beat in the eggs and milk, whisk in the treacle mix until well combined, then add the lemon juice and zest – the mixture will begin to fizz as the baking soda is activated. It should be the consistency of a thick batter.

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